"Out of the way, people! Give way to the knight and his lady!", you hear it clangorous in the alleys. Fanfares sound and the crowd draws aside when the knight on his horse escorts in brillant armament a noble madame in her green velvet dress through the market streets. See also the fanfare musicians in their red robes with narrow leg dresses – just like it used to be a couple of hundred years ago.

Once a year Geltendorf near Ammersee turns back the clock for four weeks. It's in July when Schloss Kaltenberg hosts a knight's competition and a spectacular medieval market. Market master and organiser of the competition is Prince Luitpold von Bayern.

The madame has ridden toward the arena passing paper makers, saddlers and smithies. In the alleys it smells like bonfire, spices, sheepwool and wet leather. A bathing maid scrubs a bandman's feet. Traders loudly praise their goods or cower on wooden stools concentrated on their work. It was important to Prince Luitpold to show the art of crafting reminding the medieval daily life. That's why you won't find French fries and curry sausage. Instead you will be seduced by the smells of roasted quails and potatoes and freshly baked bread.

Jugglers, stilt artists in colorful feather clothes and moresca dancer mingle among the visitors that stroll along the stands, practise the archery or admire Falkner's animals. In front of the theatre a crowd gathers to marvel at the cracking performance of the actors' group. But suddenly the death knell rings, and the crowd clears in front of the stage: The plague, horrible to look at, passes by followed by the death bringing icy silence.

Regardless of that the arena is filled with battle noise and daring knights fighting dark forces on weekends. On the grandstand next to the king you will find green dressed madame listening to the competition marshal. Also witches and magicians are in the arena, when the black knight comes in. Although being evil, sneaky and not very knightly he's the star for the audience. He has to be saddle-fast while collecting swords from the ground in full gallop or breaking his lance at a buckler of an adverse knight. And for that to be successful is the job of French stuntmen with their outstanding horses having gone through a training for eight years.

One night belongs to the jugglers only. Candles and torches illuminate the market of Kaltenberg then. And from everywhere you will hear medieval music when the jugglers invite to a feast of the senses and fantasy for one night.

The madame grants the winner a great smile and the market master is happy with the crowd pouring to Kaltenberg. For today just like back then he charges every visitor passing the gate the market customs. Who is not scared of that, nor of witches, plague and fire spitting giants, will have a great days in the Middle Ages.

by Karin Nagl

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