Don Giovanni's last supper was rather dramatic. He remains true to himself, won't change his life and therefore goes to hell. Top chefs are bound to fall when they slow down and lose a cap or a star. Opera and top restaurants share a lot anyhow: A demanding and solvent audience wants to be satisfied and that over several courses. Both reach for the stars and will drown if the interplay doesn't function.
The secret of a successful opera performance goes as well as for a top restaurant: harmony. A great cook knows about the difficulty of a vinegar not going together with the wine, and therefore acts carefully in term of flavor. Sommelier and chef de cuisine benefit from a harmonic interaction which makes the guests happy.
Sommelière Paula Bosch and chef Hans Haas are a well-rehearsed teamcrowning „Tantris“ with two stars. Its hallmark is a clear line combined with an extraordinary aroma diversity. Paula Bosch, ruler over 50.000 top wines, has remained true to the pop-gourmet-cathedral of the 1970s for 17 years now.
Another Schwabing-based person is Jakob Stüttgen. Born in Düsseldorf he isthe chef at „Terrine“, a younger branch of „Tantris’“. The cuisine is mainly French with a Mediterranean touch. Together with Benjamin Karsunke, who had worked at „Blauer Bock“ as sommelier, Stüttgen achieved a star for „Terrine“.
There are four top locations in the city centre, having been awarded with a star. Feasting with Martin Fauster at „Königshof“ is pure joy and the view over the Stachus circus to the towers of Frauenkirche is special indeed. At „Mark’s Restaurant“ at the „Mandarin Oriental Hotel“ Mario Corti, Shootingstar among the younger German cooks, daily creates a menu equaling a masterpiece in terms of optics and taste. And this for moderate prices in an elegant ambiance. Diethard Urbansky lifted „Restaurant Dallmayr“ into the star skies. On the first floor above the famous delicatessen store you eat rather private at round tables with a view to Marienhof.
Right at Platzl Alfons Schuhbeck has settled his „Südtiroler Stuben“. He is said to be the renewer of Bavarian cuisine. In 1983 he was awarded 1 Michelin star which he maintained over all the years. Great work, if you keep in mind that the busy chef handles numerous TV shows, cooking books and schools as well as ice- and condiment shops. A little apart in Bogenhausen you can find Mario Gamba, ambassador of Italian cuisine. In his star restaurant „Acquarello“ he leads his Cucina del Sole into gourmet skies.
Not crowned yet, but nothing less in quality, „Blauer Bock“ at Viktualienmarkt isa real deal. Hans-Jörg Bachmeier's philosophy "less is more at times" matches the Spartan ambiance. You will like the range of open wines. If you prefer bottles you choose from exclusive 200 positions.
by Karin Nagl
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