For a long time Bad Tölz was regarded as an insider tip. A picturesque spa in the midst of a post card landscape, to some people familiar through the local boy's choir. The peace has gone since the "Bull von Tölz" is chasing criminals there. Millions of spectators graze over the meadows passing brown spotted cows reaching the market place and the police department. Meanwhile the enjoy the delights of Bavarian plain fare together with the corpulent commissar.

Long before this medial art German writer Klaus Mann, son of Thomas Mann, gave a glance of eternity to the paradise at the foothill of the Alps. For him, who spent many summers there with his siblings, it has "the bitter-sweet smell of fir trees, raspberries and herbs". He raved the "summer town Tölz with its painted houses, its bumpy plaster, its beer gardens and madonna paintings" and the mountains which "pile up dramatically".

Bitter-sweet is also the spa's history. Located idyllic and central the inhibitants had no time for idleness. Tölz was situated at an important intersection at the old salt road to Bad Reichenhall. Already in 1331 it was granted the market right by Ludwig the Bavarian. By mid of the 17th century Bad Tölz had 22 breweries.

The Tölzer made a living of floating and timber trade. Furniture was transported to Munich, Vienna and Budapest on the Isar and Danube river. A terrible storm destroyed the castle in 1770. A reconstruction coudn't be considered. But the stones were for the building of the Munich Residence.

The title "Bad" was received after the discovery of iodine in 1899 and soon the town grew as a spa. Being attractive for its landscape and climate, it was still not very appealing.

When the Mann family moved into their summer villa in Tölz in 1906, which the called "Herrensitzchen", the town was going through a change. Thanks to the architect Gabriel von Seidl the decayed townscape had begun to change in 1903. New buildings were constructed and existing ones were restored. They mark the townscape to this day.

He managed to conserve the Marktstraße, a unique ensemble and one of the prettiest historic streets of houses of Upper Bavaria. Inspiring paintings decorate zieren dthe amazing baroque middle class houses. The Khanturm (1353), the old post office (1600) and  former town hall (Nr. 48) with onion tower and late baroque portals are impressive as well. Today it hosts the museum of local history. In the town's Badeteil the Johannes church (1879/80) takes pride in an altar painting by Lovis Corinth.

Take a stroll on Kalvarienberg, where once executions were taking place, and visit Leonhardi chapel. Since 1855 the inhabitants pilgrimage to the chapel every November 6th using decorated four-in-hands during the so-called Leonhard ride. A spectacle which is worth a visit.

Thomas Mann appreciated the "the region's pure air". At "this peaceful place" he could work on the "Zauberberg" and "Death in Venice". Bauschan, protagonist of the tale "Herr und Hund", is a real Tölzer, boyish and of robust health, just like the Tölzer.

by Karin Nagl