Salzburg surprises: who would know that the city offers miracles and rare professions apart from miraculous Mozart? The latter lived here and was cast in bronze and chocolate. The original Mozart balls are offered since 1890 in the pastry shop „Konditorei Fürst“. They differ in taste and their blue and silver packaging from normal shop products. So you better be careful which ball it is you receive as a gift. On top, people not only clean the streets here, but also the mountains. Thus, they avoid being hit by loose rocks. Not enough with this - the Loretokindl, measuring 11 cm, is said to work wonders.
Famous Stefan Zweig treasured Salzburg as "an antiquarian, sleepy, romantic town...". And he is right, apart from the festival and Mozart hype. Salzburg is situated in a basin surrounded by legendary mountains which fade out in soft waves. Its appeal lies in the interplay of old and new, of vibrating life paired with Austrian cordiality.
You don't need a sightseeing flight to get an overview of the city. You rather take the lift up the Mönchsberg. Up there you will be overwhelmed by the old town's panorama and fortress hill. With eagle eyes you can spot a fountain with a sea horse at the Residenzplatz. Vicenzo Scamozzi has designed it for archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, as well as the dome, Mozartplatz and the old market. The bishop, blessed with good eyes, enjoy the free view on the Nonnenberg and supported the city through his 15 kids that we had with his beloved Salome Alt.
Once you are back down you will do as Mozart did. Have a Melange (the Autrian Cappuccino) and a tart on the terrace of legendary "Café Tomaselli". If you close your eyes for a moment and let swing by the dome cupola and the pastel-colored, narrow Patrician houses, you will feel a sort of lightness as if you enjoyed the local specialty "Salzburger Nockerln". The trick is found in the specific design. The higher the floor, the smaller and airier the windows.
The Salzburger have always been resourceful. When the number of tourists was lower, they introduced the famous festival. And ever since the city is "populated by two categories of men, profiteers and their victims", following famous writer Thomas Bernhard. But so far, the victims adore coming to the city and are willing to pay for the Salzburg flair. Even if the Getreidegasse is more and more packed with schnaps bars, pizza places and Mozart devotional objects. But if you have a look at the wrought-iron craft symbols or the beautiful house portals (Nr. 9: Mozart's birthplace) and you walk through the romantic passages, you will forget Bernhard's critique quickly and immerse right away in the 18. century.
Also night owls will love Salzburg: if you haven't seen the Salzach river during the day, you will check out Giselakai at night. Clubs like „Chez Roland“ and „Daimler’s“ with a bar and a great restaurant in the first floor are worth a visit. Or "Living Room Bazillus" at the river with its garden and a breath taking view on the old town with the fortress are a great close of the day.
by Karin Nagl
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