Müllersches Volksbad - one of the most beautiful art nouveau spas in Europe.

The lady with the white bathing cap calmly makes her way past the fire breathing lions head and the bronze serpent slayer. Her cap is reminiscent of Colonel Lampe von Lujan. It seems as though small flower beds – in fact green and orange flower covered swimming caps - are floating by next to her. Going for a swim at the Müller’sche Volksbad is like diving into another century, another world even. It’s a place of contemplation and relaxation for people who love art nouveau. 

The Müller’sche Volksbad is one of the most beautiful art nouveau spas in Europe. It’s right in the heart of the city, between the River Isar and the Auer Mühlbach, close to the Deutsche Museum. The man to thank for the magnificent spa is the engineer Johann Karl Müller. He took it upon himself to build a spa for the less wealthy people in the city. After being designed by the architect Karl Hocheder, the public bath was completed after four years of construction work in 1901. The benefactor was knighted by the city of Munich for his efforts and thus became Ritter (Knight) von Müller. His portrait still hangs in the foyer today.

A century ago, baths and showers in private households were still largely unheard of. As a result, people used public baths as a means of personal hygiene. The entrance hall to the Müller’sche Volksbad is like an overture to a great work of art, inviting visitors to indulge in the elegant surroundings of new baroque and art nouveau. First, you get changed in the ornate wooden changing rooms, a wonderful experience, and then you are presented with the choice between the big former men’s bath and the women’s pool, which is half the size. Gender segregation was abolished in 1989. The men’s pool is covered by an impressive sprung arch and stuccoed ceiling, a bronze serpent slayer and the gold-plated bars on the air vents are nothing short of captivating. On hot days, cold vaporised water streams through them to cool the air down. The small pool is lit up by beautiful art-nouveau and is decorated by elaborate plastering. So-called ‘Badediener’ (pool attendants) strictly ensure that order is observed in the pool.

One curious part of the spa was the dog pool, which was located in the basement. As well as a dog-barber, it provided hot air boxes so that dogs could dry their fur. The dog service was discontinued in 1978.

Today, guests are enticed by the Finnish sauna with its changing coloured lights, regular fragrance infusions and women’s’ days on Tuesdays and Fridays. The warm water tub of the Latino-Irish sweat bath can be found under a glass dome in a round room which is flooded by light. In one of the alcoves stands the iron virgin, a semicircular cold shower which sprays mercilessly cold water. The Turkish bath is yet another treat.

Those who don’t want to leave the baths straight away can settle down at cosy wooden tables in the former women’s waiting room, today known as Cafe Stöhr, or in the beer garden, and be at one with the outside world.

by Karin Nagl